Cheers ~

Treve

DRINK
Drink is a new column on EATmagazine.ca intended to satisfy your thirst.

Whether you thirst for knowledge or are just plain thirsty, you should bookmark drink. Providing wine, beer, spirit and cocktail reviews twice+ weekly, drink is your tweet-ready and timely online resource.  Long time EAT contributor and sommelier Treve Ring is our web wine editor, and will continue to bring her bevvy knowledge and approachable writing style to the reviews.  Expect drink to preview events, report live from tastings, introduce new releases, highlight bottles to stock up on and suggest the perfect pairing to the day’s forecast.  Treve will rate each drink on a scale of 1-5 stars based on value, and most importantly, taste.

www.eatmagazine.ca/drink

You’ve heard of the Tour de France, non?  Of course, how could you not with Planet Armstrong and Livestrong and all of the YELLOW everywhere each July.  But how many follow theGiro d’Italia (Tour of Italy)? One of cycling’s Grand Tours, this amazing 21 day epic race takes place every May, and this year, the 93rd edition, the race has taken 22 teams of riders 3400 kilometres from the top of Italy almost down to the boot, and back up again.  I assume – like me – you’ve been following it online (www.cyclingfans.com) and cheering on the pink jersey (Italy’s version of yellow). So of course, you know that this amazing race ends this Sunday in Verona.

That deserves a toast.

I get tired just thinking about the race, so I need something – thirst quenching.  And I get stressed out watching the sprints, so I need something – cheap. And in honour of the Giro ending in beautiful Verona, I’ve looked to the surrounding area of Veneto for today’s drink.  Masi is an easy pick – a massive and respected producer, credited for having revolutionized the art of winemaking in the Venetian region.  And this wine is a steal – even on our market!  A blend of Garganega, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco yields fresh apple and sweet peach aromas, and bright flavours of pear, white peach, citrus and bitter almond – a recurring hallmark of whites from the area. Smooth mouthfeel, lively acid and elegant balance throughout – this is a modern wine, based on the very ancient, indigenous grape Garganega.

I’m going to pair mine with cyclingfans.com – but you can try with halibut or risotto verde.  Cheers cyclists!

Who

What – Raspberry Wine

Where – Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island

Why – Really – fruit wines have such a bad rep.  Hazy headache memories of sugary sweet syrups come flooding back to most when the topic of fruit wine comes up.  Here’s an update – not all fruit wines are sweet, and not all fruit wines are syrupy.  Some are vinified dry, and meant to be enjoyed with your savoury entrée.  Here’s an offdry wine that is better suited to pork dinner than cheesecake.  An amazingly fresh, vibrant aroma of summer’s juiciest raspberries leaps out of the glass, with more berry flavours, herbs and soft spice on the palate and a drying jammy finish.  Nice acidity and heft – this clocks in at 15.5% alcohol!

When – Try with pork tenderloin dressed with cherries – or with dark chocolate (Organic Fair Chocolates is located nearby!).

How (much) – $20.00 for 750 ml

Winespeak of the Week – Situated at the south end of the Cowichan Valley in Cobble Hill, Silverside Farm has evolved over the decades from berries into wine.  In addition to wines (they also make a selection of fortified wines), fresh berries and produce, new owners Lyn Jakimchuk and wine maker, Don Bull also offer jams, jellies, and fruit vinegars made right on the farm. Certainly a lovely addition to a Cowichan Valley wine tour this summer.

Happy  Victoria Day!  Today’s holiday started me thinking about wine in England – and what we could use to toast the sovereign today.  We all know of the UK love for Claret and Port – but this morning’s sunshine negated those choices. The English are also big fans of German whites, which they affectionately call Hock.

Hock sometimes refers to wine from the Rhine regions, but generally encompasses all German wine. It is short for the obsolete word hockamore – a derivative of the name of the German town of Hochheim on the Main River in the Rheingau wine region. Dating back to the 17th Century, it seems probable that Queen Victoria’s visit to Hochheim and its vineyards during harvest time in 1850 has contributed to the continued use of the term hock.

So – hock it is to toast the Queen!  And this brand new to BC Riesling makes for a fine toast indeed.  I have to admit, I was skeptical when I saw the trick pony bottle, but cynical Treve was in check when I had a taste.  Fresh and bright, with aromas and flavours of ripe green apple, lemonade and minerals.  Light bodied and off dry with a smooth, pleasing lemon finish, this will be a wonderful summertime addition to your patio party or picnic.  Screwcap appreciated!

When I researched this wine, I discovered that the bottle was designed specifically to appeal to women, and inspired by the sleek and stylish shape of a perfume bottle. Now that is wine meant for a queen.  Or at least a diva.

Though I gave it my all to try as many wines as I could, it was just impossible to taste and chat with everyone – I was especially sorry to see I missed the Sumac Ridge table and their sparklers – ARG– next time!  Here are a few faves:

See Ya Later Ranch Brut NV.  There’s a reason we pour this one all the time at EBC dinners.  Fresh, crisp and refreshing – a wonderful match to foods from all families.

Black Hills Alibi 2009.  Brilliant and balanced Sauv Blanc/Semillon that has seen time in both stainless and French oak – each treatment blending seamlessly to create an impressive and weighty Bx blend.

Clos du Soleil White 2007. Another Bx blend – this time 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon.  Nutty and spicy, with citrus, gooseberry and a great river of minerality spiking through, fresh acid and a beautiful balance.

Tantalus Riesling 2009.  Wow – this wine gets better every vintage.  I love the kiss of sweetness, the waft of limey petrol and the bright, strict, balanced acid.

La Stella Leggerio 2009.  My favourite wine of the tasting?  Got to be this unoaked Chardy from La Stella.  Amazing freshness, river minerality, crisp lemon and cream.  Stunning.

Tantalus Rose 2009.  The last time we saw a rose from this winery was 2006.  Why now?  Listen to the grapes – they will let you know.  70% Pinot Noir is complmented by Pinot Meunier.  Bone dry, austere and serious.  Seriously good.

Dirty Laundry Hush 2009.  Pretty much the opposite end of the spectrum from the Tantalus Rose – but every bit as yum.  Off dry, with strawberry, rhubarb and pear and a beautiful citrus kissed finish.  Tastes like more.

Road 13 Rockpile 2008.  The move away from varietals towards blends is a risk that has paid off.  Layered flavours that keep changing in the class, on your palate and through the lengthy finish make this a new hot pick.

Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005.  I love me a good Cab Franc.  And this is one of them.  Cedar, sage, bramble, raspberry, savoury goodness.  Thank you!

Clos du Soleil Red 2007.  This meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc is polished, layered and lengthy.  A beautiful dusty gravel nose is surrounded with warm jammy raspberry, cherry, cedar and herbs.

Clos du Soleil

Red 2007 ($39-45)
White 2007 ($27-31)

Similkameen Valley

www.closdusoleil.ca

This week’s Bloom – VQA spring release tasting – burst forth in both Victoria and Vancouver.  There were a number of lovelies that I’m looking forward to revisiting very soon (La Stella Leggier, La Vieux Pin Reserve Merlot, Tantalus Rose, Dirty Laundry Hush, Black Hills Alibi among them), but the winery that is imprinted in my mind – and on my palate – is Clos du Soleil.

One of BC’s newer wineries, Clos du Soleil is a collaboration of friends, nestled in the Similkameen, and fostered by the respected Lawrence and Sharon Herder, of Herder Winery.  While cofounder Spenser Massie and his team are obviously enamored with all things French – especially Bordeaux – the crew at Clos du Soleil believe that less is more.  Their current portfolio consists of two wines – White, and Red. Pretty simple.  Until you taste them, that is.  Suddenly ‘simple’ doesn’t suffice.

White 2007 is a creamy, smooth lemon and mineral knockout – a blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon.  Nutty and spicy, with citrus, gooseberry and a great river of minerality spiking through, fresh acid and a beautiful balance – I was sure I had tasted my favourite wine of the day.

Until I tasted the Red 2007 that is.  Wow – this meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc is polished, layered and lengthy.  A beautiful dusty gravel nose is surrounded with warm jammy raspberry, cherry, cedar and herbs.  Powerful with structure, yet elegant and smooooth – I have no doubt this will age well, but will be hard to keep around long enough to see. Spenser shared that future vintages of Red will contain Malbec and Petit Verdot as their vines mature – a full Bx set.  With Niagara winemaker Ann Sperling newly added to the team, I’m getting giddy just thinking about it.

There are only 450 cases of each Red and White available, so pick one (or two) up when you see them – and do me a favor – let me know how they age, k?

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
$18-22
www.averillcreek.ca

Foch-eh! Is Fun-eh!  And by that I mean that this is a wine that pairs with fun. Summer BBQ’s, on the dock at the lake, chilled on the patio in the late aft….  This isn’t a winter warmer – even though it is made from that deepest of red grapes – Marechal Foch.

‘What’s that?’ you s-eh.  A light and carefree Marechal Foch?  It’s true – 100% Canadian Marechal Foch in fact, estate grown at Cowichan Valley’s Averill Creek Vineyard. Then, just like that other fun (and incredibly famous) red, Beaujolais, the grapes underwent carbonic maceration.  A somewhat intimidating term for a fairly simple process.  Whole bunches were put in tank under carbon dioxide for two weeks. The gas permeates through the grape skins and stimulates fermentation inside each intact berry.  During this time the grapes are macerated (crushed) by gravity. The escaping gas affects the wine, resulting in very fruity characteristics, bright hue and low tannins.   The difference between Foch-eh and Beaujolais is that the latter is crafted from gamine Gamay grapes, and the former is from fierce Foch.

The result – an easy-drinking, light-medium bodied wine – bright royal purple in colour with a bold nose of plum, and flavours of plum, mulled cherry and sweet spice.  The structure is soft but the finish is long and fruity – and would be ideal served slightly chilled.  Finally – a use for those plastic reusable ice cubes!

If you haven’t visited Averill Creek in person, you really need to.  Besides great wine, Andy Johnston’s winery is visually stunning – crafted on four levels sloping down Mt. Prevost.  The levels are fitted together so as to create a gravity flow method for handling the wine. The first (top) level of the winery is the grape reception pad. This flows to the press pad and ferment floor. After fermentation the wine flows by gravity to the blending floor and then to the barrel room. The wine ends up in barrel having never been pumped – helping to retain the identity and terroir of Cowichan Valley fruit.  This is especially important for Averill Creek’s highly regarded Pinot Noir.

Victoria, BC
$5-7 for 650ml bottle  (9% abv)
www.driftwoodbeer.com

Well, we’ve reached the half way mark of the first ever Vancouver Craft Beer Week.  Numerous dinners, tastings and events are taking place throughout the city.  And Victoria’s newest brewery, Driftwood, is proving to be the buzzy, boozy, Belle of the Ball.  Especially their new Belle Royale.

This limited edition strong Belgian cherry ale was created with nearly 900 pounds of Morello sour cherries (that’s ¼ pound per bottle, thank you math wizards).   Salmon orange in hue, with mild cherry aromas and flavours of spicy hops, crisp tart citrus and a lingering bitter cherry finish.  Surprisingly, not overtly cherry – more waftish, with nice fresh acid.   Would make a wow moment with cherry glazed pork tenderloin or enjoy with a dark chocolate dessert – Black Forest cake please.

Bonus points for stunning label.  Ooh la la!

Who

What – Blue Bridge Double IPA

Where – Victoria, Vancouver Island

Why – As I noted a few days ago, we are in the midst of the first ever Vancouver Craft Beer Week.  25 local craft breweries – including Spinnakers – will be showcasing their tasty wares at over 20 venues this week.   And if you’re lucky, you’ll run into Spinnakers – a true innovator and exemplary ambassador for craft breweries.  A North American west coast invention, this trending double IPA is basically your familiar India Pale Ale x 10.  Expect a more robust, gutsier version of IPA – upped ante on hops, malts, and alcohol.  Brewmaster Rob Monk has done just that with BB – aromatic citrus notes leap out of the glass, with complex and floral hops, bready and orange-caramel malt flavours and a silky smooth, medium body.  Finishes a little bitter – but in a good way.  Not as hoppy as other double IPA’s I’ve had – nice balance here to integrate the higher alcohol (around 8%)

When – Bring on the burgers – beef, pork or ahi tuna.  Hand cut fries, sea salt, aioli.  Don’t even need the Canucks.

Beerspeak of the Week – Spinnakers Brewpub is Canada’s oldest brewpub, celebrating a quarter century of bringing people together.  That was the impetus behind Blue Bridge Ale.  If you’re familiar with Victoria, you’ll know how iconic the Big Blue Bridge is – linking downtown with Vic West and Esquimalt.  Love it or hate it, everyone knows the Blue Bridge. Spinnakers founder and owner Paul Hadfield puts it like this:
“Bridges link people – they bring them together and that’s exactly what the Johnson St. or ‘Blue Bridge’ does here in Victoria, and that’s what we’ve always wanted to do – bring people together to enjoy beers that weren’t readily available in our marketplace.”

Victoria, BC
$6 for 650ml bottle (7.7% abv)
www.phillipsbeer.com

In case you haven’t heard (almost impossible due to the brilliant buzz), May 10-16 is Vancouver Craft Beer Week – the inaugural edition of what is sure to be a hugely popular event.  With upwards of 25 local craft breweries and 20 venues participating in various dinners, tastings and mixers – plus a promise of ‘no crap beer’, how can it miss?

To honour VCBW, Drink will be profiling a couple of our local microbrews this week – hopefully introducing you to some revelatory tastes.  What these small boutique breweries lack in size, they make up for with sheer creativity and guts.  Being small also allows for greater flexibility and small run bottlings.  Like Double Barrel.  Phillips Brew Master/Blue Truck Driver/Sometime Still Builder/Blue Buck Buddy/All Around Nice Guy/Owner Matt Phillips put it like this: “We wanted to make a new beer and found a more expensive way to do it.”  The final sum was worth it here.  Take well-made Scotch ale.  Add an aging stint in Kentucky Bourbon barrels, and then a second layover into Okanagan Cab Sauv barrels.  The result?  A burnished red-copper hue with layered flavours of sultry caramel, vanilla, biscuit and gentle sweet peat notes with a bitter orange finish. I’m not one to drink warm beer, but more flavours and aromas presented themselves the longer the beer was swirled in the glass.  More Bourbony than winey – and lighter bodied than I expected – especially with all the obvious wood character.  Definitely different and edgy – ‘no crap beer’ here.  Innovative Matt Phillips once again shows why he is the best craft brewer in BC.